Cornwall is a mystical kingdom, unspoilt and unsurpassed. Awesome cliffs shore up the coastline, arresting in the sheer scale of their splendor. Below them the waves thunder into caves in a surge of sea and spray. Cornwalls heritage is still acted out in its tiny harbours - the landing of fish, mending of nets, stacking of lobster pots - an endlessly changing tapestry. In its old inns, heaving seafood platters are accompanied by tales of vast pilchard shoals, midnight brandy runs, shipwrecks and heroic rescues. Take one step back from the coast and you will find a very different Cornwall. A patchwork of fields lies unchanged from medieval times. Lush river valleys give way to wild heathland heaving with massive granite tors. Stacks from old tin mines point skywards from beds of heather and gorse. Villages boast curious and ancient names - Come To Good, Ting Tang, London Apprentice and Indian Queens. Parish churches, the best storytellers of all, wait in silence; and holy wells, Celtic stone circles and dolmens speak of other, more mysterious times.